Miami Destination Guide

Overview

Miami is a fascinating and contradictory sort of place. Once described as “a sunny place for shady people”, the modern, flamboyant and constantly evolving city is often stereotyped as shallow and materialistic, appealing to college kids, real estate tycoons and hip hop artists. But Miami is also highly creative, with amazing private art collections, a thriving Latino culture and its own classical music academy. Did you know that Miami has the third largest film industry in the US? Miami is also tipped to become a major high tech hub thanks to its proximity to Latin America – the city is already a major financial and banking centre. A mecca for Cubans since the 1950s Miami is also an immigrant society, where poverty and enormous personal wealth often rub shoulders. It was here, afterall,  that Gianni Versace, the epitome of 1980s excess, was gunned down in 1997. Portrayed in gritty movies such as Scarface and Get Shorty and used as a backdrop for music videos, fashion shoots and cop shows, Miami has burrowed its way into the world’s popular imagination. Sorting truth from fantasy is just one of the many pleasant things, along with celebrity watching, shopping and hanging out around the pool, about Miami.

Must Do & Ways To Revisit 

Intro: Australians often refer to Queensland’s Gold Coast as their version of Miami, but the comparison is only partially true. Apart from the stunning ocean beaches, high rise apartments and super fit locals, the two places have little in common. It is not just Miami’s balmy weather and golden sands which keep people coming back, but the city’s colourful history, strong Cuban influence, architectural heritage, diverse cuisines and lively arts scene

Little Havana
Despite thawing relations between the United States and the communist regime in Cuba, Miami’s expatriate Cuban community continues to burn with anti-Castro fervor. A guided tour around Little Havana remains one of the city’s signature experiences – and a key to understanding the unique ethnic soup with has made Miami such a social fascinating experiment. Located in Downtown, Little Havana offers everything from art galleries to traditional Cuban bakeries, oodles of colourful street life and blaring samba music.

New World Centre

Designed by the celebrated architect Frank Gehry, the New World Centre in South Beach expresses Miami’s desire to constantly expand its cultural horizons. The impressive new complex, which opened in 2011, includes a 756-seat concert hall, a six-storey atrium and a stunning roof garden. The modernist building is described as a “musical laboratory” and hosts classical concerts and many other events. Guided tours are also available.

Key Biscayne

The island of Key Biscayne, directly south of Miami Beach and connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway, is a travel destination with a travel destination. A favourite weekend getaway for local Miamians, the island offers the nicest and least crowded beaches in Southern Florida, plus two large national parks. The nearby village has a small selection of shops, cafes and restaurants – ideal if you plan to spend the day. Many wealthy Americans, including Richard Nixon, the former US president, have kept impressive holiday houses on the island.

Downtown Miami

If you stroll along Ocean Drive it’s easy to imagine that the entire population of Miami devotes itself to skateboarding, jogging, shopping and drinking mojitos. But Miami is also the financial and business hub of Southern Florida and most of the banks and government offices are located in Downtown. You’ll also find the city’s famous jewelry district here, together with some remarkable early 20^th century architecture, fantastic Peruvian restaurants, a bustling waterfront area and several five-star hotels.

Hotels & More Hotels
Generations of Americans have escaped the hash northern winters by flying down to Miami for a few days and building hotels has therefore been one of the city’s perennial occupations. Following Miami’s rediscovery (initially as a destination for fashion shoots) in the 1970s, many of the original Art Deco buildings, which once housed Jewish retirees, were transformed into chic hotels. This movement gathered pace again in the 1990s. Recent hotel openings include EAST, Miami, The Faena Hotel Miami Beach and The Miami Beach EDITION.

Sleep

Intro: When it comes to accommodation you need to be within striking distance of both South Beach and Lincoln Road Mall. Downtown Miami is more for the business traveller and anyone joining a cruise ship to the Caribbean and elsewhere. But be warned, many of the so-called art deco hotels on Collins Avenue are pretty shabby and overpriced. Be prepared to spend a little more in order to avoid some of these dodgier boutique style properties.

1. Metropolitan by COMO (New)

One of Miami’s coolest new hotels, Metropolitan by COMO on Collins Avenue has already established itself as a home away from home for America’s moneyed elite who like to party on South Beach. The modern 74-room hotel offers two swimming pools (one on the roof), a luxury spa, gym and a destination restaurant. The lavish interiors by celebrated Italian designer Paola Navone are cool, sophisticated and gloriously contemporary.

2. The Delano South Beach (Expensive)

Fans of Philippe Starck will love every part of this imposing and highly theatrical waterfront hotel which is a magnet for visiting movie stars, hip hop artists and rich New Yorkers. Dating from 1992 this stylish hotel is now something of a landmark on Collins Avenue with its glamorous pool area, stylish cocktail bar, subterranean lounge, crisp service and general air of exclusivity.

3. The Miami Beach EDITION (Beach Resort)

Another recent arrival, the Edition occupies 3.5 acres of prime real estate in Mid-Beach. And while the hotel is sometimes called a boutique property it is far grander than that, with 294 guest rooms and suites, two swimming pools, a private beach, bowling alley, dance club, outdoor movie theatre and ice-skating rink. The hotel offers several gorgeous bars and restaurants, including the Matador Room, its signature dining room.

4. Faena Hotel Miami Beach (Arty)
Travellers seeking an Australian connection during their stay should book into this Art Deco inspired masterpiece. Sydney duo Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin oversaw the transformation of the former Saxony Hotel into an opulent pleasure palace, which offers 169 jaw-dropping rooms and suites. Other facilities include an Argentinian grill, a luxury day spa and, naturally, an in-house cinema.

5. Shore Club South Beach (Minimalist)

In the 1990s the Shore Club, with its ultra cool DJs, Moroccan-inspired pool area and minimalist rooms, was simply the hottest place to be seen on South Beach. Designed by British architect Sir David Chipperfield, this stylish beach pad feels more like a private house than a standard Miami boutique hotel – and the interiors have weathered the passage of time admirably. It’s still cool.

6. The Deauville Beach Resort (Affordable)
For nostalgia buffs and those on a tighter budget The Deauville, a grand old hotel away from the main beach strip, is the obvious choice. In the 1960s anyone who was anyone partied at this gleaming beachfront resort, including The Beatles. Although the hotel is a little faded, the rooms are spacious, staff cheerful and the tariffs modest. Facilities include a family-friendly swimming pool, grand lobby and a mini shopping arcade.

Eat

Intro: Given its myriad culinary influences you might expect Miami to be an exciting foodie destination. For the most part this is true – although finding a good coffee or a real American hamburger can be hard work. Most visitors will naturally want to sample the pre-Castro fare in Little Havana, but some of the city’s best eateries can now be found in Miami Beach, Lincoln Road Mall and Downtown Miami. Ocean Drive is very touristy tends to be a little hit and miss in the food department, but is fine for a quick bite, a happy hour cocktail and some people watching.

1. Pollos & Jarras (Ceviche)

Miami is crazy about marinated raw seafood and this boisterous diner in Downtown Miami serves some of the freshest Peruvian-style ceviche in the city. Choose from market fish, shrimp or octopus – and add your favorite spicy chili sauce. Carnivores will enjoy the amazing grilled steaks brought to the table still sizzling. Wash down your meal with a couple of ice-cold Peruvian lagers.

2. Tap Tap Restaurant (Haitian)

From the outside this local diner looks a little shabby, but a warm welcome, some brightly painted murals and plenty of authentic Haitian flavours are waiting inside. The menu includes many unfamiliar items such as grilled goat, conch Creole and stewed oxtail but it’s hard to find fault with anything here. Prices are very modest and the staff will also mix you a very mean tropical fruit cocktail.

3. Matador Room (Fine Dining)

Part of the swish new Miami Beach EDITION hotel, the ultra chic Matador Room channels the design spirit of 1950s Miami but the modern Latin food here, created by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, is bang up to date. The menu blends Spanish, Caribbean and South American flavours – guests choose from a dazzling array of small and large plates. Open for brunch, lunch and dinner.

4. Icebox Café (Healthy)

In a city where pizzas, fried chicken and burgers seem to hold sway it’s refreshing to find anywhere that serves wholesome and yet delicious local fare. Located on Purdy Avenue, South Beach, Icebox is famous for its toothsome salads, freshly prepared pastas and Indonesian-inspired dishes. The interior design is suitably fresh and Nordic – but there are some wicked desserts if you wish to stray.

5. The Café at Books & Books (Brunch)

Miami is not a bookish sort of place. Most people are too busy jogging, rollerblading or shopping to read. But this pavement café in the heart of Lincoln Road Mall is a sanctuary for literary types. The café is easy to find thanks to its large blue umbrellas. Come here for a hearty brunch (try the crab cakes benedict) and a proper espresso coffee – and later explore the bookshelves crowded with American fiction and art and design titles.

6. Pinkberrry (Frozen Yoghurt)

Let’s face it frozen yoghurt is never going to sound as sexy as gelato, but this tiny shop on Ocean Drive will make your think differently about the icy dessert. Is there anything better than pomegranate flavored frozen yoghurt after a hot day on the beach? Yoghurt comes in a myriad of flavours from blood orange to green tea latte. Non-dairy yoghurt is also available for the lactose intolerant.

Drink

Intro: The nightly promenade along Ocean Drive is a rite of passage for any first-time visitor to Miami’s South Beach. Virtually every other business is a bar or a sweaty night spot so there’s plenty of local colour. But you may want to venture further afield for a touch of sophistication – and a well made cocktail, a soothing soundtrack and a dash of elegance. Since there are new bars opening almost every week, no one ever went thirsty in Miami.

1. FDR (Exclusive)

Named to honour the memory of a famous American president, FDR is located in the opulent basement space of the exclusive Delano Hotel on Collins Avenue. If you like chandeliers, expensive cocktails, top DJs and ultra-thin models, then FDR is your kind of place. For the rest of us, it’s worth dropping by just to rub shoulders with the bold and the brazen for a few short moments.

2. Ball & Chain Bar (Jazz)

Located in Little Havana, this intimate jazz club is a faithful reproduction of the venue that once played host to some of the legends of American music, such as Count Basie, Billie Holiday and Chet Baker. Today’s patrons can expect to hear plenty of live music – everything from modern jazz to salsa and Cuban son. The atmospheric bar also serves excellent tapas and classic Miami cocktails.

3. The Corner (Cocktails)

The Corner in Downtown blends a lively calendar of live music, great cocktails and a genuine Miami welcome. This is a great place to escape the madness of South Beach and rub shoulders with some real locals. Try one of the signature cocktails, such as the Pisco Punch or Ginger Rogering, or explore the range of international craft beers. The bar also serves well-priced snacks and soups.

4. Panther Coffee (Artisan Beans)
Despite its huge Latino population finding a decent coffee in Miami is surprisingly difficult. With branches on Purdy Avenue and in Wynwood, Panther Coffee is a beacon of caffeine brilliance serving both espresso and cold brew coffee, using carefully selected beans. Both branches also serve a small selection of baked goods, but most people are here for the coffee – so expect a decent queue.

5. The Bar at Level 25 (Ocean Views)
For sweeping ocean views, take the lift to Level 25 of the exquisite Conrad Miami on Brickell Avenue. The interior space is dark, moody and very sexy. There is also outdoor seating on the popular but somewhat narrow balcony. If you arrive in time for Happy Hour this is a very affordable night out, with oodles of glamour to boot. Order a decent bottle of wine and watch the sun set over Virginia Key.

6. Abbey Brewing Co (Craft beer)

Deep in the heart to Miami Beach, the Abbey Brewing Co is the city’s oldest and, so it claims, only brew pub. Dating from 1995 this wood paneled bar pre-dates current America’s infatuation with craft beer and so deserves our respect. The company makes a small range of traditional ales and stouts, but the bar also serves other craft beer brands, well-made cocktails and a great pub atmosphere.

Arts
Intro: Long before Miami became a sunny winter escape for ice-bound northerners and a mecca for partying college kids on their Spring Break, it was known for its large Jewish population, singular art deco architecture and impressive private art collections. That legacy is reflected in instutions such as The Wolfsonian and the Bass Museum of Art (closed until late 2016), but today Miami supports a thriving contemporary and multi-faceted arts scene, with many public museums, private collections and eccentric gems such as the Vizcaya Museum and Gardens.

1. Art Deco Walking Tour

For those with eyes to see, much of South Beach is a living art gallery, sporting some of the finest examples of early 20^th Century art deco architecture to be found anywhere in the world. This walking tour is organized by the Miami Preservation League, led by passionate volunteer guides and departs daily from the Art Deco Welcome Centre on Ocean Drive.

2. Vizcaya Museum & Gardens 

Hop on the Metrorail to Vizcaya Station and you’ll be transported into a fantasy world of fountains, sunken gardens, Renaissance tapestries, Rococco furniture and faded grandeur. This sprawling waterfront property was the brainchild of industrialist James Deering. The Mediterranean Revival villa dates from 1910 and still manages to enchant the visitor; the immaculate gardens and equally impressive.

3. The Wolfsonian FIU

Miami’s best-known museum is also the most accessible being just a short walk from Ocean Drive. The Stalinist style building contains some 180,000 objects, including glass, ceramics, rare books, periodicals, textiles, medals, paintings and ephemera – all of which tell the story of America’s rise to greatness from the Industrial Revolution to the end of the Second World War. Funny, eccentric and often irreverent this collection is a delight.

4. Rubell Family Collection

Established by Donald and Mera Rubell in 1964, this is today one of the largest private collections of modern art in the world. Housed in a former Drug Enforcement Agency Building, the collection includes works by artists such as Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring, Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons, Cindy Sherman, Kara Walker and Andy Warhol. The building includes a library and art bookstore.

5. Wynwood Walls

What began life as a street museum in 2009 has mushroomed into America’s most famous collection of urban murals. The works here are by artists from the US, England, Spain, Brazil, Ukraine, Greece, France, Japan, and Germany. Wynwood Walls are located at 2520 NW 2nd Avenue, Miami – between Joey’s Italian Café and the Wynwood Kitchen & Bar. Access to the murals is free.

6. Primary Projects

If you like your art weird and disturbing then this artist-operated gallery in Downtown Miami is your type of thing. As its mission statement says PRIMARY “explores and promotes multiple forms of aesthetic expression from both established and emerging artists”. The gallery offers a constantly changing roster of exhibitions – found objects to conceptual art. Open on Saturday afternoons or by appointment only.

Shop

Intro: Americans are energetic shoppers and Miami has several retail arenas where you can see them in action – or plunge into the fray yourself. A few hours in an air-conditioned mall is the natural antidote to sun bathing on South Beach. You’ll find all the big retail names in Miami, plus some grungier clothing shops and street stalls.

1. Aventura Mall

You will need to be a passionate shopper to take the long journey out to Miami’s most famous mall – hop on a bus if you want to avoid a hefty taxi fare. The upside is that Aventura Mall has everything that the modern global citizen could possible desire – from the latest electronics and computer games to designer threads like Burberry and Ted Baker, a 24 screen Cineplex and a range of cafes, food stalls and upscale restaurants.

2. Books & Books

After a few hours pounding along Miami Beach or diving into the surf there’s nothing better than a quiet browse in this literary Aladdin’s Cave on Lincoln Road. The company has other outlets in Coral Gables, Bal Harbour and Miami Airport, so you’ll soon become familiar with the name. The crowded bookshop specializes in art, design, architecture and fashion titles, but you’ll also find a good range of modern American fiction and plenty of magazines.

3. Lincoln Road Mall

Apart from the endless pavement cafes and more up-market eateries, this busy thoroughfare also plays host to a good selection of fashion boutiques (think Armani, H&M, Lacoste), shoe stores and bikini shops. The shabbier end, closest to the beach, is also good for cheap electronics, pre-paid mobile phones and gaudy souvenirs.

4. Bayside Marketplace

Mix your retail therapy with a cruise, a fish supper and a happy hour cocktail at this laid-back shopping precinct overlooking the marina in Downtown. Better known for its waterfront bars and restaurants the complex also houses some big brand stores, such as Gap, alongside discount outlets selling sporting gear, electronics and shoes. 

5. Design District

If you are looking for luxury brands such as Hermès, Christian Louboutin, Cartier, Céline, Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme and Prada then all roads lead this fast-changing neighbourhood, located near Downtown. New stores are constantly opening and there are ambitious plans to transform the Design District into a retail giant to outshine both Aventura Mall and Lincoln Road Mall.

6. Bal Harbour Shops

Bal Harbour has defined exclusive shopping in Miami since it first opened in 1965. Unlike today’s giant shopping malls, this one is relatively compact, and was designed to be open-air and lushly landscaped. Today the mall houses most of the familiar luxury brands, such as Dolce & Gabbana, Zegna and Versace, plus some more contemporary design labels and pop up fashion stores.

Active
Intro: It’s easy to imagine that Miamians spend their entire lives rollerblading, jogging, cycling and working out at the beach. South Beach is a shrine to the hard sculptured body, so it’s natural for visitors to get active while they are here. Apart from swimming and jogging on South Beach, Miami offers plenty of outdoor activities for people of all ages – from kayaking to alligator spotting.

1. Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden

Open daily these magnificent botanic gardens in Coral Gables offer a tranquil escape from the madness of South Miami. Smaller children will love the regular tram tours, while bigger kids should enjoy exploring the rainforest, rare plant house and tropical fruit pavilion. A highlight is the Wings of the Tropics exhibition featuring hundreds of exotic butterflies from around the world. 

2. Jungle Island
From petting farms to talking bird shows and mischievous baboons, this theme park should keep your kids amused for hours. Jungle Island, one of Miami’s longest running attractions, offers a number of habitats to explore, plus special performances and exhibits. Visitors can stroll along 135 miles of winding trails and use the giant water playground at Parrot Cove, Miami’s only a private beach.

3. Miami Seaquarium

Set on 38 acres Miami Seaquarium is another must-do excursion for anyone travelling with kids. The park is best known for its daily wildlife shows featuring dolphins, sea lions and Orcas, but also offers a number of educational animal encounters, like becoming a keeper for the day. The park has several permanent exhibits featuring manatees, sharks, sea lions and a 750,000-gallon  aquarium.

4. Everglades National Park

The one-hour drive to the Everglades, one of the world’s most extensive wetlands, is a well-beaten path. Almost every visitor to Miami signs up for a guided tour involving an airboat ride, a short nature trail and a rather sad alligator show. Passionate animal lovers will be appalled by this mass tourism experience, but the tours are pretty good value – provided your expectations are fairly low. Ask your hotel to recommend a good operator.

5. South Beach Kayak

Located on Purdy Avenue, Miami Beach, this family-run business rents both kayaks and stand-up paddleboard. This is a great way to explore the usually tranquil waters of Sunset Harbour – and keep fit at the same time. Prices are affordable and there are introductory classes for first-time paddlers. Single and double kayaks are available by the hour or for a half-day hire. Open seven days a week.

6. Crandon Park

Key Biscayne is a popular escape for Miamians who want to do some hiking, cycling, canoeing, skateboarding and, in the summer months, swimming, snorkeling and windsurfing. This 808-acre park contains a huge range of sporting facilities, including golf courses and tennis courts, but most people come here to use the flawless 3.2 kilometre beach on the Atlantic side of the park.

Diary

Intro: The exuberant residents of Miami who approach everything, including their recreation, with high-octane intensity, might have invented the phrase ‘look at me’. Cynics might argue that Miami has no need for special cultural events or festivals – the place is one year long celebration. Miami’s busy program of community events centres around food and wine, high end fashion, art deco architecture, movies and contemporary art.

December: Art Basel Miami Beach

Held in the first week of December Art Basel Miami is the largest contemporary art show in the United States featuring work from leading art galleries in America, Europe, Asia and elsewhere. The festival consists of satellite events, exhibitions, parties and fairs held across the city and attracts art dealers and buyers from everywhere. It is sometimes called a summer camp for the art world and continues to surprise and delight.

January: Art Deco Weekend

Ocean Drive comes alive with street parades, classic cars, street food, fashion parades, jitterbug dances and live music performances during this annual celebration of all things art deco. The annual festival is organized by the Miami Design Preservation League, which works tirelessly to preserve Miami’s unique architectural fabric. 

January: Miami Beer Festival
Now in its fourth year this popular event brings together dozens of local and international craft breweries. America’s best microbreweries, such as Brooklyn Brewery, Samuel Adams and Sierra Nevada are well represented.

Held in Marlins Park, the festival features food trucks, DJs and plenty of beer tastings. Day passes are available.

February: South Beach Wine and Food Fest
There is more to Miami’s culinary scene than burgers, pizza and fried chicken as you’ll discover if you attend this 

four-day foodie extravaganza. The festival features guest chefs, top wine makers and leading American culinary personalities. Events range from cooking classes to wine seminars, cocktail workshops and gala dinners.

March: Carnival Of the Mile

Held over 11 blocks in Coral Gables this weekend event brings together various genres of music, particularly Latin, jazz and funk, plus exhibitions by some 120 painters, sculptors, photographers, jewelers and other artists. Apart from the live music performances, visitors enjoy a wide range of food and wine from local restaurants and bars.

June: Miami Film Month

Given that Miami has appeared in so many television shows and movies it’s hardly surprising that the city today supports a strong film making community. This month-long festival offers moviegoers the chance to attend a number of special screenings at art cinemas and suburban theatres across Miami. Tickets are often heavily discounted. The festival also includes bus tours to film locations around Miami and kids’ movie screenings.

November: NASCAR Ford Championship Weekend

NASCAR is a quintessentially American sporting event featuring powerful stock cars and plenty of thrills and spills. The Homestead-Miami Speedway features a distinctive banked track and seating for 65,000 spectators. The program includes rock concerts, firework displays and other family entertainment.

Tales

Intro: South Beach, Calle Ocho and the expensive waterfront mansions in Coral Gables have featured in numerous TV police dramas. The city’s mix of wealth, beauty and danger has made Miami irresistible to film makers such as Brian De Palma (Scarface) and Mike Nichols (Birdcage). Writers, too, have been inspired by Miami’s frontier spirit, gothic qualities and criminal underbelly. It’s literary pedigree stretches back to Robert Frost, America’s poet laureate, who came here in the 40s.

1. Burn Notice
This lightweight espionage series, which ran on US television from 2007 to 2013, introduced the sunshiny affluence of Miami to a younger audience. When American spy Michael Weston (Jeffrey Donovan) finds himself surplus to requirements, or burned, he retreats to Miami to plot his revenge and replenish his coffers with a series of daring operations which see him take on drug traffickers, arms dealers and local mobsters.

2. Scarface
This 1983 crime thriller directed by Brian De Palmer is regarded as an American classic. The film tells the story of Tony Montana (Al Pacino) who arrives in Miami penniless but rises to become one of its most powerful gangsters. Scarface, celebrated for its bad language, local colour and graphic violence, has been widely imitated.

3. Miami Noir

First published in 2006 this anthology probes Miami’s unique status as the harbinger of America’s future. “The truth is that Miami, though naturally lovely, is a frontier town, perched on the border between the known and the rarely before experienced,” writes Les Standiford. “We are not only on the edge of the continent, we are to this country what New York was in Ellis Island’s heyday, what the West Coast was in the middle of the 20^th century.” 

4. How to Leave Hialeah

Cuban-American writer Jennine Capo Crucet was born in Hialeah, Miami’s most notorious precinct, in 1981 and records her experiences growing up there in this book. One critic says Crucet has done for Miami what James Joyce did for Dublin. Evoking the passion, closeness and struggles of Miami’s Hispanic community, this book also shot Crucet into the literary limelight. Essential reading for anyone who wants to feel Miami’s Cuban heartbeat.

5. Miami Vice

Although early viewers were enthralled by the unorthodox tactics employed detective duo Crockett and Tubbs, the real star of this police drama was Miami itself – from the high-rise splendor of Downtown to the shabby chic of South Beach. No matter how cheesy the dialogue, Miami Vice did portray the city’s growing problem with gang violence, drug importation and police corruption. 

6. Get Shorty

Later turned into a movie of the same name, Get Shorty, published in 1990, is one of many books by Elmore Leonard set in Miami. The novel follows the crimes and misadventures of Chili Palmer, a Miami loan shark with a complicated professional life and a burning ambition to become a Hollywood movie producer. Chili stumbles his way though a series of hilarious episodes from Miami to Los Angeles, ending up on the set of his first movie.

24 Hours
Into: Because Miami is a multi-layered destination it’s wise to do some forward planning – unless, of course, you want to spend your while day swimming on Miami Beach. The following itinerary showcases some of the city’s major cultural attractions, plus a few choice culinary and retail experiences along the way. 

8.30am: Jog, Cycle or Swim on South Beach
Miami’s famous beaches can get crowded, so it’s wise to get your body down here as early as possible. Swimming conditions are generally safe, and there are lifesavers on duty. Beachgoers can rent a sun lounge; these are free if you are staying at one of the beachfront hotels. There’s a good jogging track snaking along the Esplanade and cyclists can use Miami’s popular low-cost bike scheme.

9.30am: Breakfast Lincoln Road Mall

Ocean Drive is a continuous strip of cafes, clubs and Art Deco hotels. There are plenty of breakfast options, but the food and service can be pretty ordinary. A better option is nearby Lincoln Road Mall where the vibe is generally more relaxed and you can check out the up-market shops at the same time. Nexxt Cafe, La Maison Paul and the Café at Books & Books are all popular for breakfast.

11am: Tour of The Wolfsonian

It’s an easy walk from Lincoln Road Mall to The Wolfsonian on Washington Avenue. This is one of America’s most eccentric museums and is endlessly entertaining, so allow at least an hour to explore the various collections. Object range from Arts & Craft furniture and household goods to war propaganda posters. There’s a café and small souvenir shop. The museum is closed on Wednesdays and Sunday mornings.

1pm: Lunch at Aventura Mall

Get your shopping fix at Aventura Mall, a huge modern retail complex in the sprawling northern suburbs of Miami. The mall contains iconic American department stores such as Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Nordstrom alongside small retailers selling everything from designer handbags to sunglasses, sports gear, children’s toys and the latest consumer electronics. Reward yourself with lunch at The Grill on The Avenue, a hushed, wood paneled space.

3.30pm: The Villa Casa Casuarina

Ever since flamboyant Italian fashion designer Gianni Versace was murdered on the footpath here in 1997, this beautiful art deco mansion has been a place of pilgrimage for thousands of tourists taking selfies outside its imposing gates. Versace is a perfect metaphor for Miami’s heady mix of glamour, excess and violence. Today, the 1930s house operates as an upscale hotel, but most fans are just content to stand on Ocean Drive and gawp.

6pm: Cocktails at The Shore Club
After shopping, working out and networking, drinking cocktails is one of Miami’s favourite pastimes. With its extravagant pool area, tropical gardens, pergolas, Moroccan lanterns and ultra-cool DJs, The Shore Club is a great place to kick off your night. The SkyBar a favourite with the likes of Rihanna, Leonardo DiCaprio, Usher, Janet Jackson, Woody Harrelson and Jay-Z who have all partied here. Expect a crush on Friday nights and weekends.

7.30pm: Dinner at Tap Tap
Hop in a taxi for the journey to this tiny neighbourhood restaurant at the southern end of Miami Beach. With its bright colour scheme, well-made mojitos and authentic Haitian fare this friendly eatery is a welcome antidote to the gaudy glamour of Ocean Drive. Tap Tap is famous for its conch salad, goat stew and poached yellowtail snapper, but offers plenty of daily specials. Afterwards, you can plunge into the nighttime madness on South Beach.