MARVEL0US MERLOT FOR TOMATO MEATLOAF

David Ellis

FIGHTING mildew for the whole growing season and a couple of pretty severe thunderstorms ripping a lot of the leaf canopy away – and some of the fruit as well –   hardly seems an ideal start to making what’s turned out to be an excellent wine.

But that’s what happened to Andrew Margan on his vineyard at Broke in the NSW Hunter Valley in 2011, and he says those adversities in fact led to fruit he subsequently harvested having great concentration of flavour, tannins and colour that’s been reflected in his 2011 Margan Merlot.

And interestingly the vines for this wine were grown on their own roots, rather than being grafted – something he says local sceptics shook their heads about, but which he says he’s glad he did and has been well-rewarded by.

His 2011 is a marvelous Merlot that’s got a fresh, fruit-driven palate with forward plum and mulberry flavours and quite delicate spice. It’s one to enjoy young or for a bit of cellaring to develop earthy regional Hunter complexity.

Pay $20 and partner it with spaghetti and meatballs, or a tomato-infused meatloaf.

ONE TO NOTE: BLUE Pyrenees that was founded by French Champagne houses Krug and Charles Heidsieck in the Pyrenees region 180km north-west of Melbourne in 1963, has done marvels with its signature sparkling Midnight Cuvee.

The latest release, the 2009, continues the tradition of the fruit being handpicked under the light of a full moon to avoid fruit damage in the heat of the day.

A great drop for anytime celebrations, pay $32 and enjoy well-chilled at that next party – or with caviar-topped creamy scrambled eggs and a warm crunchy baguette for a special-occasion Sunday brunch.

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