VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Captain Cook discovered Australia? Pffft! The first recorded Europeans to set foot Down Under were, in fact, the crew of the Duyfken, a Dutch East India Company ship, under the command of Captain Willem Janszoon, who landed on Cape York Peninsula in March 1606.

So it seemed fitting that a new river cruise ship part-owned by Australian Pacific Touring was launched recently in Amsterdam, celebrating the 400^th anniversary of contact between The Netherlands and Australia.

Unlike the original Dutch voyage - a 17,000 nautical mile endurance test that would make Survivor look like a picnic - the first official cruise of the MS Amadagio was a 700km voyage down the canals and rivers from The Netherlands to Belgium and back.

As it was my maiden voyage on a river cruise I wasn't sure what to expect. I'd been on an ocean cruise before and when the swell came up so did my dinner. Too much information? Sorry. Anyway, I'd vowed never to repeat the experience... ever. So it was with some trepidation that I boarded the 75-cabin ship for the seven-night cruise, hoping I would have the same stamina as the 17^th-century sailors - if not the sea legs.

But after the christening ceremony in Amsterdam, where the champagne flowed freely, we charted a course to the quaint Dutch fishing village of Volendam and I discovered what the term smooth sailing meant. The ship was unbelievably stable with the only rock 'n' roll on the entire trip coming from the entertainers in the bar each night. Even when the ship docked, I often didn't feel it. Sleeping was dead easy.

I knew we wouldn't be slinging hammocks in the hold like the sea dogs of old, but the cabins were still a surprise. They were more roomy than I expected with a comfy double bed dressed with plush white bedlinen, and armchairs strategically placed to make the most of the river views through the floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors. They also have a state-of-the-art entertainment system with flat-screen TV, music, movies and internet access - and an ensuite with shower, hairdryer and toiletries.

Mind you, my husband and I didn't spend a lot of time in our cabin - too many places to go and things to see. The ship docked in a different port each day so you could go ashore every day. Guided tours are included in the cruise price (and there are some optional extras as well), and we usually had some free time so we could continue sightseeing, shop or just sit and sip coffee in a local cafe before jumping back on board for the next leg of the trip.

We may not have been the first to explore the quaint Dutch fishing villages and historic towns and cities that we visited, but we made some fascinating discoveries nevertheless.

In Volendam, our first port of call, we discovered why the locals say that a herring a day keeps the doctor away, but two herrings a day keeps everyone away. Raw herring is an acquired taste (and smell) - and in the Dutch tradition, should be swallowed whole! Er, thanks but no thanks. After a guided walking tour of the tiny fishing village, we jumped on our tour bus and headed for the town of Edam. I'll take cheese over herring any day.

This became our daily routine. We'd arrive in a port, go on a guided walking tour, and then take a bus tour to another destination as well. Now, don't get me wrong - you don't have to go on all the tours. You can opt to stay on board instead, choose a comfy chair in one of the two lounge bars or up on the sun deck and relax with your favourite book, or just drift off as the ship drifts downriver.  

But most of the destinations are pretty enticing and if you're a history buff you'll be hooked. I was one of the first on the bus for the tour to the Airborne Museum and Cemetary in Arnhem, site of one of the bloodiest battles of World War II. The 1977 movie A Bridge Too Far was based on the tragic Battle of Arnhem, where thousands of Allied troops died in the attempt to capture the Arnhem Bridge (we docked just down from the new Arnhem Bridge - the original was destroyed in the battle).

A day later - or should I say another night in the bar later - and we arrived in the Belgian city of Antwerp. Again I was one of the first to jump on the bus - but this time the drawcard was bling bling. Yeah, yeah, it's an ancient sea port and was the home of master painter Pieter Paul Rubens (and the museum is impressive) but everyone knows that diamonds are a girl's best friend and Antwerp is the diamond centre of the world. I walked back up the gangplank at the end of the day with a sparkle in my eye and a bigger one on my finger!

I'd indulged my love of history and bling bling, so what else could I wish for? Chocolate. Next on the itinerary were the postcard pretty cities of Ghent and Bruges; both famous for the beauty of their canals, gilded architecture and... handmade chocolate. Oh, and beer. My husband "discovered" around 20 different Belgian beers (the country produces around 700 varieties!) and I explored every chocolaterie I could, including Neuhaus (they invented the praline in 1912), The Chocolate Line (known for its 80 varieties, including chilli chocolate and lemongrass chocolate), and we also took an optional tour to the capital city of Brussels, so I could try the country's most expensive pralines at Marcolini.

On board there were even more discoveries. We found that the small lounge bar at the back of the ship was the best place to unwind and watch the never-ending procession of windmills on the shore and working barges ploughing the waters. We discovered that the pianist in the main lounge bar would continue playing until the last person left each night (yes, guilty as charged) and that the beauty salon would do its very best to rectify the damage the next day. We did find the fitness centre and the bicycles that passengers can use (free of charge) to explore the countryside, but didn't give either a workout, although there were many people who did. Borrowing a book from the library was the most energetic activity I did on board.  

But if you think you don't need staying power aboard the MS Amadagio, you're wrong. You need grit and determination to get through the buffet breakfast, four-course lunch and then back up for a four-course dinner each day. Oh, and did I mention that wine is included? Unlike those 17^th-century sailors living on a slice of stale bread and water each day, a fondness for good food and wine is a prerequisite for the 21^st-century sailor.

I disembarked with an extra four kilos of personal baggage. Perhaps those people lining up for the bikes had the right idea after all!   

The MS Amadagio is exclusive to Australian Pacific Touring. It has 75 cabins, two lounge bars, a restaurant, bar, beauty salon and gym. The seven-night Tulip Time Cruise described above is priced from $2099 per person, which works out at about $300 a day and includes all meals and most guided tours - great value for money.Other cruises include 11-day Danube cruise (from $3195pp) stopping at Prague, Nuremberg and Vienna and a 15-day cruise from Amsterdam to Budapest (from $4295pp). Call Australian Pacific Touring on 1800 675 222 or go to www.aptouring.com.au