FREEWHEELING CAIRNS

By Damien Reid

Looking for a road trip with a difference?

I think I've stumbled on one of the greatest drives the world has never known based around Cairns, so pack the flippers, hiking boots and prepare for the dusty outback and quaint b&b's because this one's got everything.

Ours was Holden's new Adventra which is an all-wheel drive Commodore and most rental companies now include this style of car on their fleets.

The Holden was as comfortable as any regular car and for those few creek crossings and deeply rutted dirt roads, its extra ground clearance and all-wheel drive traction got it to the same spots reserved for bigger off-roaders.

Yet our first crocodile encounter didn't involve a car or a creek, it was on the roof of the Cairns Casino. Sitting under a 20-metre high dome housing over 100 species of animals, the rooftop zoo is home to Goliath, the four-metre crocodile.

After a day wandering around Cairns, our first overnight stay was an hour up the highway at the Rydges Reef Resort in Port Douglas. The recently renovated hotel is family-friendly and has a great Indian family restaurant.

You cannot overnight at Port Douglas without breakfasting at the Rainforest Habitat Wildlife Sanctuary. Here you can share your fruit platter or hot breakfast with King Parrots, Rosellas and cheeky Lorikeets.

Driving through the sugarmill town of Mossman it's time to catch the ferry over the Daintree River before getting down and dirty with a bit of four-wheel driving and a few river crossings along the Bloomfield Track.

An hour beyond lies the aboriginal community of Wujal Wujal where the Walker Family host guided tours to the Bloomfield Falls. Agnes and Francis are part of the Kuku Yalangi people and showed us amazing bush medicine skills.

"It's about not only showing people how we live, but also educating people about the traditional owners, how we survived and how beautiful this area is," Agnes said.

Need to clear the sinuses? Crush green ants with leaves and take a whiff, I promise you nothing works better.

Up the road is the infamous 1870's corrugated iron Lion's Den Hotel. It's as typical a country pub as you'll find anywhere but with new owners it now has a great vegetarian menu and fantastic coffee. Try the stunning vegetarian pizza!

Smooth bitumen welcomed us into Cooktown and straight to the James Cook Museum.

Famous for being the place where Captain Cook fixed the Endeavour's damaged hull after striking the Great Barrier Reef in 1770, Cooktown has a population of 1800 spanning many cultures.

With a rich history of Chinese migrants during the gold rush, indigenous life and early white explorers, the museum gives equal billing to each facet and includes the Endeavour's anchor and cannon salvaged off shore.   

Our all-wheel drive Holden came in handy as roads flicked from bitumen to dirt to bitumen, traversing wash outs and ruts caused by dry creek beds before re-joining the tar. Passing through Lakeland 110 kilometres later, we made a beeline for the Atherton Tablelands with their delicious green mountains and windy roads.

Mareeba is renowned for its peanuts but it also grows 90 per cent of Australia's coffee, so a tasting tour at Coffee Works is essential.

Run by Robert Webber, Coffee Works produces 12 Australian blends and I can vouch for Black Mountain with a side of chocolate-coated beans and a coffee mocha toffee.

"Australia imports 50,000 tonnes of coffee per year and produces 500 tonnes so we're small, yet our climate delivers a distinct, rich flavour unlike any other country," Robert said.

Of course, a good coffee is much better with a nice wine, so up the road is Golden Drop Mango Wines and the Mt Uncle Distillery nestled among banana plantations, avocado and macadamia nut orchards. 

Golden Drop use Kensington Red mangoes to produce a range of whites, ports and sparkling wines. Try their sparkling which adds a fruity tang or Mango Port served chilled or as a mixer.

Drive past the big yellow DC3 plane used in the movie "The Thin Red Line" and pull up next to the hanger by the highway which houses dozens of tanks, trucks, helicopters and planes.

The owner of Queensland's largest privately owned military collection, Syd Beck has been collecting memorabilia since his childhood in Townsville when he lived across the road from the Sergeant's Mess.

"For me, the end of the war meant the end of free chocolates and lollies as I used to go over after school."

His most significant item is an AvaCobra P39 fighter plane which was forced down in Cape York in 1942 and is the last US fighter to land in New Guinea.

"Most of the relics came from Townsville which had a big military base, but there's also material dating back to the American civil war."

An hour out of Cairns is Atherton. The maize, peanuts and lychees are a reminder of the contribution made by the Chinese during the gold rush along with the impressive Chinatown and Hou Wang Temple.

Restored and maintained by the National Trust, it includes the world's last remaining ceder camp temple which was last used for worship in 1975.

"There used to be many across Northern Australia, but they've all disappeared," manager, Noeline Mays said.

"There are only three Chinese descendent families left. Many were forced to "westernise" to be accepted and a large part of their culture was lost.

"The Chinese were hard working with many walking 2000 kilometres from Darwin over six months."

The Gillies Highway takes us back to the coast through historic Yungaburra which is high enough (720 metres) to be a cool retreat from the coast. With no less than 18 heritage properties, it boasts the most number of heritage listings for a Queensland town.

What better way to finish than a ride on the Kuranda scenic train from Cairns. Enjoy a day on this old world train as it snakes through 15 hand carved tunnels in the Barron Gorge National Park.

After lunch, return via the Skyrail and spectacular views of the Coral Sea as it skims across the rainforest canopy.

BREAKOUTS:

Accommodation:

Resort: Port Douglas Reef Resort.

Four-star offering a wide choice of accommodation including self-contained deluxe villas. Villas are split level with air-conditioned bedrooms, ceiling fans and private balconies Ph: (07) 4099 5577

Camping: Lion's Den Hotel.

For a unique night, check into the Lion's Den's elevated treetop tents. Tents have solid wooden floors, beds, linen, lights and a fridge while an outdoor barbecue is perfect for entertaining. Ph: (07) 4060-3911

Take advantage of the higher, cooler climate with log fires, spas and an overall cosy environment. Each self-contained cottage includes an ensuite with separate kitchen, lounge and laundry. Ph: (07) 4095-3330

Great Drive:

From Cairns, follow the Captain Cook Highway north 70kms to Port Douglas. Turn right into Port Douglas Road and return to Captain Cook Highway, continuing north to Mossman.

Drive onto the Daintree River Ferry 50km north of Port Douglas. It runs seven days a week from 6am to midnight and costs $20.

Continue along the four-wheel drive Bloomfield Track climbing the Alexandra Range to the lookout overlooking the Daintree River mouth. Alcohol restrictions apply in Wujal Wujal 65kms north of the ferry. If in doubt detour around the town as heavy fines apply.

After the Lion's Den, turn right onto Cooktown Development Rd and follow for 28kms into Cooktown. Exit via the same road, passing the Lion's Den turn off and continuing for 54kms to Lakeland. Turn left on to the Peninsula Development Rd.

Follow South through Mt Molloy and Mareeba where it becomes the Kennedy Highway passing through Atherton. Follow signs for Yungaburra and Gordonvale. Turn left at Gordonvale onto the Bruce Highway and follow for 24km into Cairns.

Re-fuelling:

It's not known as the gourmet food belt for nothing with boutique coffee houses, vineyards and distillers. Visit the Coffee Works in Mareeba and enjoy a tasting tour for $5.50. Entry is free to browse. Ph: 1800-355-526.

Mt Uncle Distillery uses only their own produce to ensure additive free products. It also means its liqueurs are seasonal and limited but irresistibly delicious. Try the Elixir De Musa reserve banana brandy. Ph: (07) 4086-8008.

Look & Learn:

Beck Military Collection: Mareeba.

Fighters, bombers, tanks and cannon are on display in Queensland's biggest private collection mainly focusing on Australia's involvement in the South Pacific battles. $12.50 for adults, $6 for kids. Open 10am-4pm. Ph: (07) 4092-3979

Walker Family Tours: Wujal Wujal.

Spend time with the traditional owners of the Bloomfield region, the Kuku Yalanji people. Let them guide you through the rainforest and see it through their eyes. Learn bush medicine and tucker skills and enjoy timeout at the Bloomfield Falls. Tours last for 30 minutes or two hours for the rainforest tour with billy tea and damper. Bookings are essential. Ph: (07) 4060-8069

Atherton Chinatown Museum

Open daily from 10am to 4pm, Atherton's temple is a credit to the National Trust. Interactive displays and multimedia exhibits describe the life of the Atherton Chinese during the gold rush. Adults $7, children $2. Ph: (07) 4091-6945