Alice Springs is just a sleepy stop-over on the way to Ayer’s Rock, right?

Actually, no. Alice is a vibrant town (population 30, 000) with plenty to see, both indoors and out.

Nestled beside the striking MacDonnell Ranges, the Alice region looks spectacular from the air, I discover after reluctantly agreeing to take a dawn ballooning tour. We start so early the stars are out and our shadows come from the moon. Just one hour later the desert sun is blazing and we’re scrambling for sunscreen as we gaze out at the rich red ranges against vivid blue sky.

For the chance to get even closer to our scaly friends, the Alice Springs Reptile Centre has giant lizards, snakes, and even a large crocodile on show. (from Darwin, as there are no crocs in the Alice.) You’ll get a lively lecture from your lizard-stroking guide (with tidbits like “this lizard curls his bum next to his face when he’s afraid so you think there are two lizards and back off”) and even get the chance to hold a few.

Later that day, I’m up close with a friendly camel (Frontier Camel Tours, 08 8956 2444). Until now I’d thought “chewing your arm,” was just an expression - that was before Salty came into my life!

“She won’t hurt you,” Salty’s minder, Kobus, insists, as I use my clean wrist to wave goodbye.

Next day I’m ready to explore the striking landscape way beyond the town. I take a four-wheel drive guided tour along unsealed roads to Palm Valley, a bizarre tropical oasis in the desert. It’s the Northern Territory’s only, palm-studded reminder of how the climate was in central Australia thousands of years ago. As we trek beside the parched river bed we marvel at the abundance of palm trees - and are greeted by several giant lizards sunning themselves on rocks.

On the drive back, we stop for coffee at Hermannsburg, the Aboriginal community, now a thriving arts centre, once run by zealous missionaries.

At night I go to Red Centre Dreaming (08 8950 6666), where over dinner we watch a dreamtime dance. To my surprise, all the other tourists are European. Tragically, it seems most other Aussies just don’t share the interest in indigenous culture.

Local identity Andrew Langford is working to change that, with his popular Sounds Of Starlight Theatre show. Here, he plays the didgeridoo, percussion and keyboards while showing audiences a slideshow of vibrant desert images.

After our cultural fix, it’s time for a nightcap. Bojangle’s is, apparantly  the bar where locals and tourists alike come to chew the fat after the sun sets.
Alice is full of unpretentious, mildly eccentric characters so it doesn’t take long to make new friends.

Take flamboyant chef Beat Keller, for example. From Switzerland, he’s established a Swiss-Indian-Australian restaurant in the heart of town called Keller’s - with dishes like Kangaroo Stroganoff on the menu.

“I couldn’t believe it, what a bizarre combination - and in the middle of the bloody desert!” exclaimed  Billy Connolly after eating Beat’s treats on a visit to Alice.

Like Billy, I’m dazzled by the scenery and made welcome by the locals, including Lynne Peterkin, my host at the luxury Orangewood Bed And Breakfast. Lynne moved to Alice from Perth after her husband was transferred here a few decades ago, and has somehow never managed to leave. Her B and B is immaculately laid-out, cosy and only five minutes walk from Todd Mall, the town’s social centre. Alice has come a long way since the 50s, when less than 3,000 people lived here. Now along with the beauty salons and cafes, there are enticing gift shops, and popular Aboriginal art galleries like Red Sand  and Mbantua.

Royal Flying Doctor Service headquarters - opposite the Reptile Park -- is also worth a visit; a chance to see the medical team servicing much of the NT in action. After a guided tour and a short film, visitors can retire to the cafŽ for tasty refreshments.

On my last day, another friendly local, Matt Pearce from Discovery Ecotours (08, 8953 8888), collects me at dawn and drives me to some stunning gorges an hour out of town. There’s not another soul in sight as he points out ancient Aboriginal rock carvings, an archeologist’s dream. “I like to come here early, before the tour buses,” Matt explains. He’s passionate about his job and can tell you the name of every leaf and insect on our walk.

All to soon Matt is dropping me at the airport. It’s been five days and I’m wishing I had another week. Ayer’s Rock (five hours drive away) will have to wait until next visit!

Local attractions:

• Ooraminna Station Homestead (08 8953 0170)
• Alice Springs Desert Park (08 8951 8788)
• Alice Springs Reptile Centre (08 89528900)
• School Of The Air (08 8951 6834)
• Royal Flying Doctor Service Visitor centre and cafe (08 89521129)
• Red Centre Dreaming (08 8950 6666)
• Andrew Langford’s Sounds Of Starlight Theatre(08 89530826)

Camels: Frontier Camel Farm (08 8956 2444)

Art: Red Sand (08 8956 9738)
Mbantua(08 89525571)
 
Bars: Bojangles Saloon (80 Todd St, 08 89522873)
The Limerick Inn (93 Barrett Drive, 08 8950 7777)
 
Restaurants: Keller’s, (08 89523188) Bluegrass (08 8955 5188)

Ballooning: Spinifex Balloons (08 8953 4800)

Tours: Discovery Ecotours (08 8953 8888)

Palm Valley trip (Alice Springs Holidays, 08 8953 1411)
 
Accomodation: Orangewood Bed and Breakfast (08 89524114)