VARANASI - THE CITY OF NIRVANA

By Deepti Bhagat

Varanasi (Benaras), situated in Uttar Pradesh, on the holy Ganges is Shiva’s city. It has been in existence for over 2500 years making it the oldest living city in the world. Even Mark Twain called it : “older than history, older than tradition older even than legend”. Its famous “ghats” (pavilions) lie mostly on the west bank of the river. So experience the sunrise from a bajra (boat) on the river. Watches the city come to life with people bathing in hundreds in the river to cleanse themselves of all their sins (as per legend). Others wait and pray on the river bank invoking Shiva who untied his topnot to send the Ganges to earth in aid of thirsting humanity. It is said that Varanasi is where the Ganges, makes a loop turning north (Uttarvahini) paying obeisance to Lord Shiva one last time, before flowing south into the sea.

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Hundreds of ghats, temples, palaces and terraces line the Ganges, the most important being Dasaswamedh, Ghat. Sit here and soak in the sights and sounds of Varanasi or just meditate. Walk the narrow alleys to the Kashi Vishwanath temple (Shiva), brushing past bathers, cows, and vendors of sweets. Intriguing shops on either side sell bangles, henna, scarves, prayer beads, souvenirs etc.

The 18th century Durga Temple south of the “old” city was built by a Maharani. The Sankatmochan temple, where Hanuman (the monkey god) is the presiding deity, has numerous monkeys who love to carry away your offering. Tulsidas is said to have written the Ram-Charit-Manas (the Hindi version of Epic Ramayana) here.

The Ram Nagar Fort lies on the East bank of the river, so take a boat to this 17th century fort, the home of the erstwhile Maharaja of Varanasi. It has an interesting museum with an armory and silver and gold plated palanquins and howdahs (seats for elephant backs). The Bharat Kala Bhawan which lies within the campus grounds of The Benares Hindu University (a center of learning since 1917) has a fine collection of miniature paintings, sculptures and pictures.

Varanasi is the home of many of India’s famous classical musicians and if you are lucky you can catch a performance in the city. Don’t miss the “Arti” in the evening when thousands of little oil lamps are set adrift in leaf boats on the river to the sound of hymns and chants. This is one way to experience Nirvana.

The festival of Mahashivratri (8 March this year) is celebrated with great fervour in Varanasi as it celebrates Shiva’s marriage and also the opening of his third eye (Triambaka). People fast and at night when they break their fast, temple bells and chants rend the air. After all Varanasi is Shiva’s city.

A short drive from Varanasi is the ancient stupa of Sarnath where Buddha preached his first sermon. The Archaeological Museum here has a beautiful statue of Buddha and the Ashoka “lion capital” which is India’s emblem.

Varanasi is a shopper’s paradise and has been renowned for its silks and brocades. Badohi, near by, makes excellent hand knotted carpets.

The multifaceted city of Varanasi is different things to different people but one thing is for sure, even if it shocks you, it ends up captivating you and you always want to return.

For more information contact Department of Tourism, Uttar Pradesh, Directorate General, Rajarshi Purshottam Das Tandon Paryatan Bhavan, C-13, Gomti Nagar, Lucknow, U.P. Ph:+91-522-2308916, 2308017 Fax:+91-522-2308937 Email: upstdc@up-tourism.com or yatrup@sancharnet.in