Too many Australians think of Philadelphia as a brand of cream cheese, not the vibrant city worth including on a US visit.

But if you can spare the time, Philadelphia - just one hour away from the Big Apple by train, two by car - is rich in culture, history and beauty. (Just take a thick coat if it’s winter; like New York, Philly can get mighty chilly.)

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Considering it’s dwarfed only by New York, LA, Chicago and Houston, I was surprised at how small and intimate the city is. Plenty of its original historic buildings remain, offering an enchanting peek of life in the US three centuries ago.

Philadelphia - once the nation’s capital - was where the Declaration of Independence was written and signed in 1776, and where the Constitution was drafted. It was also the stomping ground of founding father Benjamin Franklin, the site of an early White House, America's first church (where President George Washington worshipped) and second commercial bank (built in 1791.) Philadelphia also houses the famous Liberty Bell, the country's most famous symbol of freedom.

Bordered by two rivers, the Delaware and the Schuylkill, the city itself is easy to get around with a sensibly planned grid street system. When Quaker aristocrat William Penn founded the city in 1682, (his statue tops the huge city hall) he wanted the streets laid out in a logical, orderly fashion. North to south are numbered, while east-west streets are named after trees as the Quakers felt individuals would get swollen heads.

I took a 90-minute Trolley Tour (US$23 for adults, $5 for kids) to see the city’s key attractions  - and escape an unexpected snowfall.  The bus continually tours the city and you can hop off and on when you like at any of the 18 stops, including the famous Museum of Natural History and the Franklin Institute.

“A penny saved is a penny earned,” our guide delighted in quoting Franklin’s utterances as we went, including the apt, “Fish and guests smell after three days.”

He then pointed out the hotel where Grace Kelly first met her Monaco Prince - then the 19th century Bergdoll Mansion “where Bruce Willis filmed Sixth Sense.”

The city has five central squares, the best-known of which is elegant Rittenhouse Square, named after the astronomer. It’s flanked by some of the trendiest bars, restaurants and upscale apartments the city has to offer. By day the square is populated with office workers; by night it’s lit up as revellers come to enjoy the social scene.

For your dose of museums, libraries and galleries, head for the Benjamin Franklin Parkway. Here the Rodin Museum houses the largest collection of the great sculptor’s works outside of France, bequeathed to the city by a wealthy collector. You know you’ve reached the right place when you’re greeted by The Thinker statue, (first seen by many of us as children watching Dobie Gillis on TV).

And metres away, the Philadelphia Museum of Art houses one of the USA’s most important collections. (A memorable scene from the movie Rocky, involving Sylvester Stallone leaping up the steps, was filmed here.) Fashion lovers will relish Walnut Street, sporting glamorous boutiques and gift shops. (In contrast to many States, there is no tax on shoes and clothes in Philadelphia.)

It’s worth visiting the cute cafe, Bonte on intersecting South 17th St, just to watch suavely attired businessmen  consuming its famous berry and chocolate waffles while tapping away earnestly at their laptops. “They stay here for hours,” the woman behind the counter shrugged. “No problem.” Just six streets away, South Street is the city’s arty fashion and cafe hub, with more than 300 eclectic shops and eateries.

I dined at several outstanding restaurants, most memorably Buddakan (325 Chestnut Street) where you tuck into tasty pan-Asian cuisine while feasting your eyes on a spectacular three metre candle-lit Buddha in the middle of the room.

And while on the topic of food, though you’ll see Philadelphia Cream Cheese for sale at every street corner, don’t be fooled. It’s not made here.

“Its makers, from Lowville, NY, just liked the fresh image associated with Philadelphia,” a local admitted to me, a mite sheepishly. “But it doesn’t worry us. It sells really well here.”

If planning a visit, visit the Philadelphia Convention and Visitors Bureau at www.pcvb.org