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Think of where the world’s jet-set flock to ski, and one name
consistently heads the list. Aspen, Colorado.
It’s where some of America’s richest, including movie stars like Brad Pitt,
Kim Basinger and Arnold Schwarzennegger love to spend their winters.
But there’s no need to feel intimidated – you don’t have to own your own jet, (though plenty of visitors do) to feel at home in this enchanting alpine town. It can be exhilarating just roaming by foot through the pretty, snow-coated streets - where even a parked bicycle can quickly transform into an ice sculpture - checking out the beautiful people.
Increasingly, visitors are learning how to plan and enjoy being part of this skier’s paradise without having to first find a sugar daddy or win Lotto. Two years ago, snowboarders were finally let loose on the mountains; meaning many more younger and budget-conscious visitors are finding ingenious ways to enjoy a stay here.
In peak season, accommodation can cost thousands per week – but if you're canny, you can still find somewhere for less than US$100 a night.
The Boomerang Lodge is more than double that, but that’s still cheap compared to most lodgings here. One of the most affordable places to stay in town is the Mountain House Lodge, which has friendly staff, includes a hearty breakfast and is just a five minute stroll from the gondola - all for around US$100/night if you time it right.
Aspen’s four mountains, Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk and Snowmass are all easily accessible by free shuttle bus.
It makes sense to arrange ski passes with your travel agent before leaving Australia; they are cheaper that way.
And if you’re worried about how to afford new ski gear, there’s one easy solution – buy it second-hand. Aspen has several terrific second-hand shops like Gracy’s (in the centre of town, near the gondola) where the super-wealthy discard their jackets and gloves after just one or two seasons.
It is of course, great fun to browse boutiques with outfits costing half a mortgage – and seen what type of people are spending up. Though admittedly not quite as satisfying as actually purchasing, window shopping around the town is still pretty good fun. It helps when you see the likes of Melanie Griffith and Goldie Hawn roaming through the local lingerie shops and galleries – or dropping off goods to the seconds stores!
But it is possible to buy a couple of outfits without damaging the hip pocket: Gap, in the centre of town, is one such store constantly offering discounted gear.
Surprisingly, though, for a town which is a magnet to such wealth, by night you won’t see people displaying the latest in high fashion. The unofficial evening uniform is always jeans, a warm coat and scarf – affordable to all.
And after a day in the snow, there’s plenty of activity around the town at night. There are ritzy restaurants galore – but the trick is to ask for the bar menu and save a small fortune.
Also, watch where the locals go to eat. Many, of course, rely on the well-stocked supermarket for most meals. Those with a tight budget could do worse than stopping at Bagel Bites, next to the grocer, for fresh baked goods, or Big Wrap, to stock up for the day up the mountain. In the snow, the Base Café has affordable pizzas, burgers, chips, salads and soups. You’ll have change from $10 if you lash out on a large bowl of home-made soup with freshly baked bread.
By night, for affordable food and fun indoors, again, follow the locals. A notable hit eatery is La Cocina (308 East Hopkins Ave) which has delicious, inexpensive Mexican food and a bar, famous for its margaritas.
Cooper St (508 East Cooper Ave) is another popular bar serving fish and chips. And Explore Bistro (221 East Main st) situated within a bookshop, serves great soup.
There is no shortage of places to drink. The jetset flock to Little Nell (675 Durant St), great for people-watching. But be warned – even a hot chocolate costs about $10 here. Those seeking less more formality and more fun go to The Red Onion (420 East Cooper Ave) which has a rowdier, more casual crowd who’ll party until 2am. Eric’s (315 East Hyman Ave) is another bar where you’re likely to spot a star in jeans blending in with the locals. Also check out the cool J Bar (330 East Main St), part of the Hotel Jerome.
The small Snowmass village, right beside the mountain, which has plenty of delightfully wide and gentle slopes for beginners and intermediates, is just 20 minute by bus from the heart of Aspen and has its own pubs and eateries.
It’s even less formal than Aspen and has more of a family atmosphere. But if you’re there first and foremost for the skiing it may be cheaper to base yourself here and commute to the livelier village by night.
As well as the skiing, there are public concerts, galleries and street entertainment around Aspen to keep you entertained. The snow-carving competition, held in the centre of town each winter, is captivating – and of course, free. The people-watching, too, is never dull; along with all the young and beautiful, you’ll also spot some of the fittest and happiest looking octogenarians, still whizzing down the slopes each day.
For some more gentle action, yoga-lovers may want to lash out and enjoy an early morning class atop beautiful Aspen Mountain. At $20 US, it’s not the cheapest session you’ll ever undertake, but with the breathtaking outlook, possibly worth the outlay. And certainly healthier than a cocktail at Little Nell for the same price!
Getting There: Qantas flies daily to Los Angeles (LAX), then connect via domestic network to Aspen Colorado Sardy Field (ASE).

Jacqui Lang is a Sydney-based freelance writer with 18 years experience in print and TV, whose passions include skiing and roaming the globe. You can email her at jacquil@ozemail.com.au
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