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Tonga’s gentle giants capture hearts |
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Written by Kris Madden
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Friday, 12 September 2008 |
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Winner: 2007 ASTW Best International story under 1000 words
KRISTINE MADDEN discovers that swimming with whales in Tonga is one of life's most humbling experiences.
I’M sitting on the back of the boat, and my heart is thumping. I'm about to plunge into the water and swim towards an animal that is the size of a semi-trailer.
It is at this point that I am questioning the wisdom of my decision. Would it be able to tell we were there? What if it bumped into us - even by accident? Exactly how big a turning circle does a 15 metre humpback whale weighing 40 tonnes need? Our snorkel-and-flipper clad group slips awkwardly into the water, trying, with great difficulty, not to look so completely out of our depth.
I'm trying to remember all the instructions we have been given. No splashing, stay close to the guide, and absolutely under no circumstances try to touch the whales. Touch them? I don't plan to get that close. Then, through the clear, sapphire-coloured water, an immense shape comes into view. Suddenly, my fears and any other thoughts vanish, replaced by an overwhelming sensation of calm and awe.
Gracefully, a mother humpback whale glides within metres of us, and from beneath her, a tiny replica of herself, surfaces to take a look. He heads straight towards us, and as he pirouettes playfully around us in the water, I know I will never be content with conventional whale watching again.
The islands of Vava'u in the Kingdom of Tonga are a humpback whale “nursery”, and every year between August and October several hundred whales make the annual migration from Antarctica to these warm Pacific waters to mate and give birth. Tonga is one of only three countries in the world where it is legal to swim with humpback whales.
Rae Gill of Whaleswim Adventures had her own whale epiphany a decade ago in the Caribbean and has been leading whale-swimming tours ever since. She delights in sharing her experience with others and donates a percentage of the profit she makes from escorting groups to whale protection and conservation.
Gill believes that the whale swimming industry is vital to the future of Tonga's humpbacks and the country's tourism industry.
“Tourism currently protects the whales; but if that industry disappears, the country may return to commercial whaling. Our operation puts the whales first and we would never do anything that harms or disturbs them. My experience is that they seem to enjoy the interaction with us. Most people who have swum with the whales have a greater understanding and appreciation of them and their environment, and leave with a desire to protect them.”
While the whale encounters dominate my time in Vava'u, I find plenty of other activities to enjoy. In the space of a week, I snorkel in waters that are like a tropical aquarium; kayak around uninhabited islands; and sample what looks and tastes like dirty dish-water during a kava ceremony at a traditional Tongan feast.
Tonga is not for those looking for luxury, or who cannot bear to be without a hairdryer or mobile phone for a week. Largely it is a stopping off point for “yachties” on round-the-world cruises, evidenced by the expensive craft and numerous bars in the main port of Neiafu, the main departure point for daily whale-swimming tours.
There are no five-star hotels in Tonga and accommodation standards can vary widely throughout the islands. One of the island resorts I stay at consists of little more than a few grass huts with a bed, toilet and no hot water.
However, the peace and quiet, with only the sound of coconuts dropping on the roof to annoy, and the “fish salad” on the menu which turns out to be a full lobster - are joys that can be found in few parts of the world.
Things here don't often run to schedule, even though they happen eventually. For those with limited time, Tonga can be frustrating - but for those seeking an unspoiled environment, gentle pace and their own David Attenborough moment - it is paradise.
WHEN TO GO
The humpback whales migrate to Tonga every year between August and October.
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand flies to the capital Nuku'alofa via Auckland six times a week. Pacific Blue has direct flights to Tonga from Sydney twice a week.
Tonga's domestic carrier, Peau Vava'u, operates flights to the Vava'u island group from Nuku'alofa. Flight schedules can change unpredictably, so check often before your flight.
Travel agents are the best way to book these flights as they can advise of any changes and rebook you if flights are unexpectedly cancelled.
Whaleswim Adventures runs a number of 7 and 9-day tours throughout the season which include all meals and accommodation staying at various island resorts. Prices start from A$3450 pp twin-share (excluding airfares). For more information visit www.whaleswim.com.
The website of the Tonga Visitors Bureau is www.tongaholidav.com |
Wednesday, 23 May 2012
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